Round Scotland by RIB
We’ve previously put up some posts during IRC member Sandy Morrison’s trip around Scotland - here’s the whole trip in his own words…
We completed [the trip] in 10 days and 610 nautical miles; three days were spent waiting on weather and another 3 going through the Forth and Clyde canal and the Crinnin canal.
We left Findhorn Bay 57°. 40′N, 3 °deg. 37′W. Wind ENE sea state moderate 4 - 5 on Saturday 6th June at 16.00. We went through the narrow channel and the bar which fronts the seaward entrance of the channel into the Moray Firth and set a compass bearing of 059.2° M, 4.560 NM passing Burghead and steering onto C 07.5° M distance 7.253 nm passing Lossiemouth we steered onto C 121.2°M distance 7.104 NM then onto compass bearing 105.1 °M distance 4.415 NM into Buckie Harbour where we met with some RNLI members and coxswain arriving there at 17.00 hours. After having a general chat and a cup of tea we left Buckie Harbour on a heading of 064.7 °M distance 4.001 nm passing Portknockie we steered onto C 103.8 °M distance 11.631 NM to Macduff where we spent the night.
The following day Sunday wind Easterly sea state 3- 4 we left Macduff at 11.00 on a compass bearing 083.3°M distance 6.557 NM passing Troup Head onto C 090.2 ° M 5.548 NM passing the White Tower off Rosehearty onto C 097.8° M distance 4.358 NM to Kinnaird Head. We then changed compass bearing to 120.0° M distance 1.723 NM passing Cairnbulg Brigs C 139. °M distance 6.096 NM passing Rattray Head steered onto C 169.4 °M distance 7.104 NM passing Peterhead steering onto C 200.6 °M distance 25.281 NM said goodbye to Aberdeen Coastguard contacted Forth Coastguard and headed for Stonehaven arriving at 13.30 and contacted Forth Coastguard again on our arrival we then moored up for the night, taking on fuel the following morning, during our stay over that night we met up with Mr. John Morrison no relation whose uncles and grandfathers were crew in the Stonehaven lifeboat many years ago, he told us the story when the Stonehaven Lifeboat lost four of it’s crew after trying to row to catch up with a sailing ship the Grace Darling, the lifeboat overturned off the bar at Aberdeen.
The following day the wind was ESE 2 - 3 sea state mainly moderate to slight. We left at 11.00 on a compass bearing of 195.1°M distance 32.200 NM passing Bell Rock we steered onto C 202.7°M distance 16.255 NM again changing course to C 225.2° M distance 9.246 NM to North Berwick arriving at 15.15 where we moored up for the night, and later met up with the RNLI crew of North Berwick who were carrying out a capsize exercise later that night.
After calling home that night I was told that the backup crew would not be able to meet up with us until Thursday it was then decided to back track into the Firth of Forth and head for the Forth and Clyde canal.
The harbour entrance at North Berwick faces SW and is 8m wide and can be closed by booms in bad weather. The harbour dries at LW which we found out on the Tuesday morning when we left our hotel and arrived at the harbour, we waited on HW at 15.45 the weather ENE sea state 2-3 slight or moderate, heading out of North Berwick onto compass bearing 205.8°M distance 4.879 NM into the Forth channel continued onto C 244.3°M distance 10.433 NM at 5°00. 701′N, 003° 07. 084′W changing course to C 272.7°M distance 5.265NM passing Inchmickery onto C 286.0°M distance 2.324NM turning again onto C 247.1°M distance 2.527 NM under the Forth Bridges arriving at Port Edgar Marina at 17.05. The marina does not store Petrol so one guy kindly transported me and the reserve fuel tanks to the nearest fuel station where I filled them up, although taking on fuel at Stonehaven this was the first time that all the fuel which was in the main fuel tank and the reserve tanks when we left Findhorn 180 liters had to be replenished, at this point we had traveled 189.01 NM taking 10 hrs 29 min actual moving.
Leaving Port Edgar at 19.30 onto compass bearing 296.8°M distance 4.921 NM then steering onto 281.3°M distance 4.853NM to F1 (4) R.12s beacon for River Carron entrance we continued up the river under the Kerse Road and M9 Bridges to the Sea Lock at Carron Cut arriving at 20.30 where we moored up for the night.
The following morning Wednesday it was hoped that we could get into the canal, but due to paperwork, insurance etc not being completed in time we had to spend another night in Grangemouth however we did manage to get the RIB moored up in a secure mooring in the canal ready for moving the following morning at 08.00.
On Thursday morning we started going through the canal 40 Locks would have to be maneuvered before we continued out of Bowling Lock into the River Clyde. We were accompanied by a converted river police boat now named Elena Dan with a crew of three who during the trip up the canal kindly cooked up breakfast for us, also accompanying us was a yacht with two crew members, who also supplied us with cups of coffee, we set off through the River Carron Sea Lock 3, Abbotshaugh Lock 4, Mungalend 5, then the Faikirk Flight locks 6-16 on leaving lock 16 passed the Union Inn and the Bonny Barge Camelon Boat Co on our port side we then came to the Golden Jubilee Lock and the Falkirk Wheel behind it we proceeded up the canal passed Bonnybridge to Underwood Lock 17, Castlecary Locks 18-19, under the A80 and to the last lock, Wyndford Lock 20 we then had a clear run to the Hill Head Swing Bridge at Kirkintilloch at this point we were 150ft above mean sea level and moored up for the night.
The following morning Friday 08.00 we set off for Maryhill Locks 21-25, Temple Locks 26-27 Cobberhill Locks 28-32, Boghouse Locks 33-36, Kilpatrick Lock 37, Bowling Basin and Sea Lock 38-40 we had to moor up in the Basin Lock until the following day as we had missed the tide.
Saturday morning we continued out of the two remaining locks and into the River Clyde and roared past the empty slip where the QE2 was once launched, and below the darkening silhouette of the Erskine Bridge. Soon we were among hills and wooden slopes, it was strange, after traveling so slowly for the past three days, to feel the thrust of the Mercury Optimax engine again. Our original bearing C 294.8° M then C291° M distance 12.58 NM keeping the red buoys on the right, green on the left then turning onto C 230°M into the Clyde Channel contacting Clyde Coastguard of our passage to Ardrishaig continued onto C 195° M distance 13.8 NM before turning onto C 293° M SE Isle of Bute distance 4. 076 NM continued on C 319° M distance 9.80 NM veering off slightly to C 312.7° M distance 2.10 NM turning again onto C 356.9° M into Lower Loch Fyne passing Tarbert on our Port side and Portavadie Marina on the Starboard then the approach to Ardrishaig C 324° M distance 2.72 NM arriving at Ardrishaig Basin Sea Lock1, where we moored up again for the night.
The following day Sunday with the help of a yacht crew we proceeded up through the 13 Locks mooring up for the night at lock 14, the crew were changed out that night and headed home.
Crinan Canal enchanting blue corridor beneath the jagged hills and evergreen slopes of the Knapdale Forest opened in 1801, the Crinan Canal links Loch Fyne with the Sound of Jura and is truly the gateway to the finest sailing on the West coast. The passage, taking a day to complete, saves vessels the long sea voyage of 130 miles around the Mull of Kintyre. Clyde ‘ ‘Puffers’ , small sea-going cargo vessels specially built for the Forth and Clyde and Crinan Canls, were the mainstay of the transport system carrying coal, slate, and whisky between Glasgow and the Western Isles. Today few ‘Puffers’ remain but fishing boats, pleasure yachts and cruisers still pass through the 15 locks of this popular 9-mile passage. The Clyde ‘Puffer’ Vital Spark, made famous in Neil Munro’s 1906-1923 books about Para Handy and the Vital Spark, and the various more recent TV series, now lies in Crinan Basin.
Returning to Crinan on Tuesday on a rainy afternoon with a moderate breeze F4 - 5 from the west, we set out through Locks 14 -15 and out into Crinan Loch contacting Clyde Coastguard of our passage. The only fimilar landmark was the Crinan Hotel, stately and whitewashed on the road above the sea lock, our original heading leaving the harbour at 13.22 on C 328.3° M distance 2.64 NM passing Black Rock then Eilean Coinean and Craignish Point turning onto C 304° M distance 1.6 NM passed Reisa Ant- Stuith Port then onto C 355 ° M distance 5.73 NM. Midway between North tip of Rubha & Eilean Mhic Chairain headed C 326° M distance 4.23 NM at 56° 17,360′N 005° 43,853W we changed course to C 034.3° distance 9.9 NM at 57° 26,081′N 005° 36,624′W we altered course again to C 326M distance 4.9 NM taking us past Duart Point and into the Sound of Mull.
Mull has a coastline of 480 kilometres (300 mi) and its climate is moderated by the Gulf Stream. The island has a mountaineous core, the highest peak on the island being Ben More, which reaches 966 metres (3,170 ft). Various peninsulas, which are predominantly moorland, radiate from the centre.
The Aros peninsula to the north includes the main town of Tobermory, which was a burgh until 1973 when burghs were abolished. Other settlements include Salen and Calgary. The Ross of Mull lies to the south west and includes the villages of Bunessan, Pennyghael, Uisken and Fionnphort. Lochbuie, Lochdon and Craignure lie to the east.
Numerous islands lie off the west coast of Mull, including Erraid, Iona and Ulva. Smaller uninhabited islands include Eorsa, Gometra, Inch Kenneth, Little Colonsay, the Treshnish Isles and Staffa of Fingal’s Cave fame. Calve Island is an uninhabited island in Tobermory Bay. Two outlying rock lighthouses are also visible from the south west of Mull, Dubh Artach and Skerryvore. The Torran Rocks are a large shoal of reefs, islets and skerries, approximately 15 square miles (39 km2) in extent, located two miles (3 km) to the south west, between the Ross of Mull peninsula and Dubh Artach.
Continued on C 305° distance 1.9NM passing Ardtorish Bay and Castle ruin onto C 315M distance 1.7NM at 56° 31,596′N 005° 46,825′W onto C 290° Distance 3.66 NM changed heading again onto C 311° M distance 3.86NM at F1 (2) R.10s Rubh’an t- Sean Caisteil headed C 334° distance 4.89NM passing Calve Island and Tobermory Harbour on our Port Side.
Tobermory Bay there is reputed to be the wreck of a Spanish galleon somewhere in the mud at the bottom of the bay. The ship was part of the defeated Armada of 1588 and was fleeing the English fleet when she anchored in Tobermory to take on provisions. Following a dispute over payment the ship caught fire which caused the gunpowder to explode. She was supposed to have been carrying millions of gold coins when she went to the bottom but no one has ever managed to find any significant treasure.
At 56° 38,968′N 006° 03,466′W C300°M Distance 7.062NM, rounding Garbhlach Mhor onto C 018° M distance 2.06 NM to pass Point of Archamurchan contacted Stornaway Coastguard then heading onto C 050° M distance 6.07 NM changing compass correction at Bo Faskdale F1 (3) G.18s clearing rock formation onto C 040° M distance 16.16NM to Malliag at 57° 01,535′N 005° 49,604′W missing the non navigational area turning back onto C 182° M passing Sgeir Dhrarg on our Starboard into Mallaig Harbour arriving 17.50 buy this time we were in need of a hot drink and food so booked into the local Marine Hotel and stayed over for the night.
Wednesday the weather was forecast to change later so we decided to take the short trip to Kyle of Lochalsh and moor up. We set of from Malliag at 10.00 heading out of the harbour on a heading of C 021° M distance 2.48 NM passing An Fhaochag & Dun Ban Bay heading C 019° M Distance 1.61 NM turning again off Alror Jetty to C 013° M distance 3.46 NM heading for Ornsay & Eilean Stonnach Oc 8s 18m 15M, continued to East Rock and turning onto C 053° distance 5.56 NM into the Sound of Sleat giving Bagh Dunan Ruadh tidal streams a wide berth before heading onto C 337° M distance 1.1 NM passing the disused Sgier nan Laogh ferry track onto C 004° M distance 1.3 NM again keeping clear of the tidal streams SW of Rubha na Caillich, turning onto C 326° M distance 0.68 NM passing Caillich Knoll onto C 293° M distance 2.02 NM passing Eileanan Dubha Castle on our starboard turning ont C 357° M 394 yards to harbour.
On arrival at Kyle of Lochalsh we met the Harbour Master who checked the forecast, the following three days was not going to be good. Wind Direction South Westerly, veering South later F5-7, Sea State Moderate, becoming Rough to Very Rough. With this in mind and the two guys having to get back to work we decided to wait on weather until Sunday to achieve the last leg which meant going home for a few days. We couldn’t leave the RIB unattended so we removed it from the mooring and stored it on the instructions of the Harbour Master at a secure location protected by CCTV cameras.
On Sunday before our departure we met up with some of the Lifeboat crewmembers and was presented with a pennant showing the Atlantic Class Lifeboat on print edged in gold. We launched the RIB again at the old ferry ramp and continued out of Kyle of Lochalsh passing the Kyle of Lochalsh Hotel contacting Stornaway Coastguard on our departure of our passage and headed out on C 264° M distance 1.04 NM under the Skye Road Bridge before turning starboard onto C 337° distance 10.62 NM passing Eilean Mor onto C 008° M distance 26.92 NM to Rubha Reidh but at 57° 35,759′N 005° 53,265′W we altered route to Gairloch C 027 M distance D 7.7 NM turning onto C 100° M distance 3.6 NM as we developed a problem.
Leaving Gairloch in near perfect conditions we headed north almost a straight line to Cape Wrath some 59.09 NM rounding Cape Wrath we said goodbye to Stornaway coastguard as we had entered Aberdeen district, Our next stop was Longhope RNLI station, we decided to do a straight run as we had more than enough fuel and the sea was being kind to us. Arriving at Longhope after a total of 115NM so far we were made welcome by Angus Budge and it was not long before we had had a guided tour of their Tamar all weather boat, an absolutely wonderful vessel. Then we were taken by car the short road trip to the lifeboat Museum. The museum was worth the trip alone.
Back aboard our RIB we headed south round Stroma then east past Duncansby Head then the last leg, which took us close by the Beatrice Windfarm project. Home to Findhorn. Clocking up a total of 225 nautical miles in 8 hours at sea using just on 200 litres of fuel. We managed to get back just before the Captains table stopped serving food for dinner. We achieved a total of 610.86 NM.
I must thank all who participated in getting us around Scotland without their help it may not have been achieved.
We met a lot of nice people on out trip, from the old gentleman in Stonehaven who spoke of reminiscent days of the Stonehaven Lifeboat, guys and even the ladies in the PUB at North Berwick, also the help that we obtained at Port Edgar, can’t forget the guys that served up breakfast as we headed up the Forth & Clyde Canal, the Lock keepers, even the generous hospitality that we received at some Hotels, and of course the RNLI crews that we met on the way round.
I would also like to thank the sponsors and all the people that gave and sent donations.